On Christmas Eve, Bethlehem resembles a ghost town. Celebrations are halted due to Israel-Hamas war.

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BETHLEHEM, West Bank-The typically bustling biblical birthplace of Jesus resembled a ghost town Sunday after Christmas Eve celebrations in Bethlehem were called off due to the Israel-Hamas war.

A priest walks by the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem is having a subdued Christmas after officials in Jesus' traditional birthplace decided to forgo celebrations due to the Israel-Hamas war. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)

The festive lights and Christmas tree that normally decorate Manger Square were missing, as were the throngs of foreign tourists and jubilant youth marching bands that gather in the West Bank town each year to mark the holiday. Dozens of Palestinian security forces patrolled the empty square.

“This year, without the Christmas tree and without lights, there’s just darkness,” said Brother John Vinh, a Franciscan monk from Vietnam who has lived in Jerusalem for six years.

Catholic clergy walk in procession next to the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem is having a subdued Christmas after officials in Jesus' traditional birthplace decided to forgo celebrations due to the Israel-Hamas war. (AP Photo/Leo Correa)

Vinh said he always comes to Bethlehem to mark Christmas, but this year was especially sobering. He gazed at a nativity scene in Manger Square with a baby Jesus wrapped in a white shroud, reminiscent of the thousands of children killed in the fighting in Gaza.

Barbed wire surrounded the scene, the grey rubble reflecting none of the joyous lights and bursts of color that normally fill the square during the Christmas season. Cold, rainy weather added to the grim mood.

The cancellation of Christmas festivities was a severe blow to the town’s economy. Tourism accounts for an estimated 70% of Bethlehem’s income — almost all of that during the Christmas season.

A nativity scene decorated to honor the victims in Gaza is displayed in Manger Square, near the Nativity Church, which is traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve, in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem is having a subdued Christmas after officials in Jesus' traditional birthplace decided to forgo celebrations due to the Israel-Hamas war. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)

With many major airlines canceling flights to Israel, few foreigners are visiting. Local officials say over 70 hotels in Bethlehem were forced to close, leaving thousands of people unemployed.

Gift shops were slow to open on Christmas Eve, although a few did once the rain had stopped pouring down. There were few visitors, however.

“We can’t justify putting out a tree and celebrating as normal, when some people (in Gaza) don’t even have houses to go to,” said Ala’a Salameh, one of the owners of Afteem Restaurant, a family-owned falafel restaurant just steps from the square.

Palestinian scouts hold signs in solidarity with Palestinians in the Gaza Strip calling to end the Israel-Hamas war, near the Church of the Nativity, traditionally believed to be the birthplace of Jesus, on Christmas Eve in the West Bank city of Bethlehem, Sunday, Dec. 24, 2023. Bethlehem is having a subdued Christmas after officials in Jesus' traditional birthplace decided to forgo celebrations due to the Israel-Hamas war. (AP Photo/Mahmoud Illean)

Salameh said Christmas Eve is usually the busiest day of the year. “Normally, you can’t find a single chair to sit, we’re full from morning till midnight,” said Salameh. On Sunday morning, just one table was taken, by journalists taking a break from the rain.

Under a banner that read “Bethlehem's Christmas bells ring for a cease-fire in Gaza,” a few teenagers offered small inflatable Santas, but no one was buying.

Instead of their traditional march through the streets of Bethlehem, young scouts stood silently with flags. A group of local students unfurled a massive Palestinian flag as they stood in silence.

An organist with the Church of the Nativity choir, Shukry Mubarak, said the group changed much of the traditional Christmas musical repertoire from joyful holiday songs to more solemn hymns in minor keys.

“Our message every year on Christmas is one of peace and love, but this year it's a message of sadness, grief and anger in front of the international community with what is happening and going on in the Gaza Strip,” Bethlehem's mayor, Hana Haniyeh, said in an address to the crowd.

Dr. Joseph Mugasa, a pediatrician, was one of the few international visitors. He said his tour group of 15 people from Tanzania was “determined” to come to the region despite the situation.

“I’ve been here several times, and it’s quite a unique Christmas, as usually there’s a lot of people and a lot of celebrations,” he said. “But you can’t celebrate while people are suffering, so we are sad for them and praying for peace.”

More than 20,000 Palestinians have been killed and more than 50,000 wounded during Israel’s air and ground offensive against Gaza’s Hamas rulers, according to health officials there, while some 85% of the territory’s 2.3 million residents have been displaced.

The war was triggered by Hamas’ deadly assault Oct. 7 on southern Israel in which militants killed about 1,200 people, most of them civilians, and took more than 240 hostages.

The Gaza war has been accompanied by a surge in West Bank violence, with some 300 Palestinians killed by Israeli fire.

The fighting has affected life across the Israeli-occupied territory. Since Oct. 7, access to Bethlehem and other Palestinian towns in the West Bank has been difficult, with long lines of motorists waiting to pass military checkpoints. The restrictions have also prevented tens of thousands of Palestinians from exiting the territory to work in Israel.

Amir Michael Giacaman opened his store, “Il Bambino,” which sells olive wood carvings and other souvenirs, for the first time since Oct. 7. There have been no tourists, and few local residents have money to spare because those who worked in Israel have been stuck at home.

“When people have extra money, they go buy food,” said his wife, Safa Giacaman. "This year, we're telling the Christmas story. We're celebrating Jesus, not the tree, not Santa Claus, she said, as their daughter Mikaella ran around the deserted store.

The fighting in Gaza was on the minds of the small Christian community in Syria, which is coping with a civil war now in its 13th year. Christians said they were trying to find joy, despite the ongoing strife in their homeland and in Gaza.

“Where is the love? What have we done with love?” said the Rev. Elias Zahlawi, a priest in Yabroud, a city about 80 kilometers (50 miles) north of Damascus. “We’ve thrown God outside the realm of humanity and unfortunately, the church has remained silent in the face of this painful reality.”

Some tried to find inspiration in the spirit of Christmas.

Latin Patriarch Pierbattista Pizzaballa, arriving from Jerusalem for the traditional procession to the Church of the Nativity, told the sparse crowd that Christmas was a “reason to hope” despite the war and violence.

The pared-down Christmas was in keeping with the original message of the holiday and illustrated the many ways the community is coming together, said Stephanie Saldaña, who is originally from San Antonio, Texas, and has lived in Jerusalem and Bethlehem for the past 15 years with her husband, a parish priest at the St Joseph Syriac Catholic Church.

“We feel Christmas as more real than ever, because we’re waiting for the prince of peace to come. We are waiting for a miracle to stop this war,” Saldaña said.

Christmas is cancelled in Bethlehem, the birthplace of Jesus

Rev Munther Isaac by this year's nativity scene of a baby in a pile of rubble, symbolising bombing in the Gaza Strip

Rev Munther Isaac by this year's nativity scene of a baby in a pile of rubble, symbolising bombing in the Gaza Strip.

Christmas is officially cancelled in Bethlehem this year, with the birthplace of Jesus resembling a ghost town as fighting between Israel and Hamas rages.

Manger Square, usually thronging with tourists and ablaze with festive lights and decorations, was largely empty when The Telegraph visited.

At its centre is a nativity scene showing the baby Jesus wrapped in a white shroud, surrounded by rubble and barbed wire, in a chilling echo of the thousands of children killed in Gaza.

Nearby, a group of students unfurled a giant Palestinian flag in silence.

On Sunday, one of the city’s multiple scouts bands that typically march across Bethlehem celebrating Christmas with drums and trumpets, walked the cobbled streets in silence, holding posters in Arabic and English, some of them saying “Gaza is in the heart” and “Let the war stop now”.

Situated in the volatile West Bank, Bethlehem is no stranger to war and instability. But no one here can remember the last time both church leaders and local authorities agreed to cancel Christmas altogether.

Rev Dr Munther Isaac, the Pastor of Bethlehem’s Evangelical Lutheran church, said this was the most challenging Christmas season he had experienced, conceding that he no longer felt able to preach a message of hope.

“We’ve lost all hope for peace,” said Rev Isaac, who hails from the nearby town of Beir Sahur, one of the oldest Christian communities in the world.

A woman prays at the empty Church of Nativity in Bethlehem
A woman prays at the empty Church of Nativity in Bethlehem

“I can’t preach and promise my people empty words that things will get better,” he told The Telegraph, adding that he feared that the devastation in Gaza, where more than 20,000 people have now died, according to the Hamas-run health ministry, could one day spread to the West Bank.

Rev Isaac and his congregation wanted to channel the pain and anger the local Christians feel about the plight of Gaza.

Their own nativity scene features Jesus as a baby, wrapped in the Palestinian keffiyeh, lying in a manger formed from rubble.

The message, Rev Isaac said, is that “he’s with those children who are bombed and rescued, hopefully, alive from under the rubble”.

The story of the birth of Jesus in Bethlehem has a special resonance with Palestinians this year.

“The Christmas story has become our story: A family that had to travel during the occupation because of a census by the emperor, that’s meant for registration and control… is very similar to the magnetic card system that we have here,” Rev Isaac said, referring to the biometric ID cards that Palestinians seeking to work in Israel must obtain.

He said his and other parishes’ calls to cancel the celebrations reflects the mood of their parishioners, some of whom aren’t even putting up Christmas trees in their homes this year.

Turning a blind eye

In his Saturday mass, Rev Isaac accused the world for turning a blind eye to a “genocide against a captive population”.

“We, the Palestinians, will recover… I feel sorry for those who are complicit. Will you ever recover from this?” he said.

Earlier this month, the pastor led a delegation of Bethlehem church leaders to Washington in what he now describes as a “naive” hope that, with Christmas approaching, American politicians would heed their call for peace.

“We said: ‘All we’re asking for is a ceasefire’,” the priest said.

Hanna Hanania, the mayor of Bethlehem
Hanna Hanania, the mayor of Bethlehem, said his city could face unrest as the economic situation deteriorates

The American officials and politicians, he said, were very blunt, telling him “this war must continue”.

Since the trip, however, the US and Israel’s allies have ramped up pressure on Israel to minimise civilian casualties in Gaza.

Thanks to a US abstention, the United Nations Security Council managed to pass a motion to get more aid into the besieged enclave last week, but the body fell short of backing a call for a ceasefire.

That stance makes many Palestinians in the West Bank, which this year has suffered its worst unrest since the end of the Second Intifada, uneasy about their own future.

The Israel Defense Forces have conducted several raids in Bethlehem since the Oct 7 attacks, setting the city on edge, and the cancellation of Christmas festivities has struck a severe blow to the town’s economy.

Collapse of tourism

With many major airlines cancelling flights to Israel, few foreigners are visiting.

Tourism accounts for an estimated 70 per cent of Bethlehem’s income, almost all of which comes during the Christmas season, Hanna Hanania, the mayor of Bethlehem, told the Telegraph.

Earlier this month, Mr Hanania was forced to cancel the traditional Christmas tree lighting ceremony and other festivities on the main square outside his office.

“I’ve never seen anything else like it in my life,” said Mr Hanania, who was a teeanger during the Second Intifida, gesturing to shuttered hotels and empty restaurants. “The tourism sector has completely collapsed.”

Father Issa Thalijeh, a Greek Orthodox priest at the Church of the Nativity
Father Issa Thalijeh, a Greek Orthodox priest at the Church of the Nativity: "This is the first time we see the church in December empty like this"

Local officials say more than 70 hotels in Bethlehem have been forced to close, leaving thousands of people unemployed, while blockade imposed by Israeli authorities since Oct 7 throughout the West Bank has also prevented tens of thousands of Palestinians from exiting the territory to work in Israel.

Mr Hanania admitted that his city and other parts of the West Bank could face unrest as the economic situation deteriorates.

Across the square from the mayor’s office at the Church of the Nativity, there were none of the usual crowds lining the ancient paving stones, queuing to catch a glimpse of the place of Jesus’s birth.

Instead, a few desperate taxi drivers were looking for anyone who looked remotely like a tourist.

“This is the first time we see the church in December empty like this,” said Father Issa Thalijeh, a Greek Orthodox priest at the Church of the Nativity.

Inside the basilica, a newly-renovated mediaeval mosaic glistened in a shaft of sunlight.

“This church used to be full of people,” he said.

This year, instead of managing crowds of tourists, much of his time had been taken up helping parishioners left without work amid the West Bank lockdown, he told the Telegraph.

Like many in Bethlehem, the plight of Gaza’s Christians weighed heavily on Father Issa.

Gazan Christians, who numbered just over 1,100 people before the war, used to travel to Bethlehem for Christmas every year, having secured special permits from Israel that offered a rare chance to leave the Strip.

A solitary woman lights a candle at the empty Church of Nativity in Bethlehem
A solitary woman lights a candle at the empty Church of Nativity in Bethlehem

Father Issa described a visit from a young Gazan family this Easter, who came to Bethlehem with their daughter, Aliya, who had been born in February.

In October, Aliya was killed in an Israeli air strike. She was six months old.

“It’s not easy to hold someone in your arms, to think they have a good life ahead of them, only to find out they are dead now,” Father Issa told the Telegraph, flicking through photos on his phone showing him holding the baby in a pink winter suit.

Like other churches in the city, the Church of Nativity has scrapped all its Christmas celebrations.

One of the oldest Christian communities in the world, Bethlehem’s Greek Orthodox community now numbers about 3,500 people, Father Issa said, adding that it was twice as large when he was ordained 11 years earlier.

No mood to clebrate

Mona, a Bethlehem resident who came to the church with a friend, told the Telegraph she supported the idea of cancelling Christmas festivities, saying locals were in no mood to celebrate.

“This is the birthplace of Jesus: it should be the light of the world. It gets me down what’s happening around us,” said Mona, who declined to give her second name.

But however difficult the circumstances, Father Issa tries to keep his faith.

He refuses to give up hope, taking inspiration from the cave underneath the church where a silver 14-pointed star embedded in the polished marble slab marks the supposed place of Jesus’s birth.

“This light is shining on us. This light will come to us one day. If I don’t build my thoughts on peace and love, it will never come to us,” he said.

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